Doctor's Review: Medicine on the Move

October 23, 2021
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Brown Sugar Kitchen

Tanya Holland isn’t a morning person, but in Brown Sugar Kitchen, published by Chronicle Books, she explains that she’s seen the sunrise almost everyday since January 15, 2008. Holland’s days at her soul-food restaurant in West Oakland, CA start at 5:30am with the removal of the heavy-duty locks on the window grates and doors. Then, for the next 90 minutes, she steeps pots of chai, puts sticky buns in the oven, heats up waffle irons, fries buttermilk-and-herb-soaked chicken, fills pie shells with sweet potatoes, add grits to boiling water, dumps potatoes on the flat-top grill and paints the tops of biscuits with cream before baking them. She even fires up one of the playlists that her husband, Phil, has made all before slipping her on chef’s coat at 7am and opening the doors. The Brown Sugar Kitchen served 37 people that day that it opened in 2008; today, it serves as many as 400 on a Saturday. Three of our favourite recipes from the resto’s new cookbook follow; you’ll want to serve all of them at home.

Recipes from the book