Doctor's Review: Medicine on the Move

September 23, 2021
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Modern Jewish Cooking

Grandma Bessie was an intuitive, shoot-from-the hip Jewish cook who used a juice glass to measure sugar. In Modern Jewish Cooking (Chronicle Books), author Leah “Bessie” Koenig explains that her bubbe passed away before she was born, but that she inherited her first name as her middle name and regrets that she didn’t also get her recipe for gefilte fish. Koenig’s own mom turned out “a superbly juicy brisket,” but as a teenager, it never occurred to her to ask mom how. In college, she looked online for recipes and started to build a repertoire of classics. Because they weren’t “family recipes” that she had to copy, she felt free to improvise in her Brooklyn kitchen, and incorporated lots of seasonal ingredients from farmer’s markets and global flavours. About 175 of her fun, vegetable-forward concoctions appear in Modern Jewish Cooking; all, including the three dishes featured here, are kosher.

Recipes from the book